Greece

We landed in Athens and the arrival was nothing memorable (that’s a compliment). We got our bags, crammed into the train, and sweat the few blocks walk to the airbnb. Swinging the door open ready for relief from the hot Greek sun we were met instead by inferno. The AC doesn’t work and it’s not worth fixing per the host, but hey it said so in the listing. One line nestled in an essay. Gotta read the fine print, that’s my fault. We spend most of the evening stripped down in front of the fan not moving a muscle. Our only escape is at sunset to see the sun dip over the city from Pnyx Hill.

Not letting the heat stop us, we strap on our boots and get ready for a day of walking. We step out and ironically get the sweet relief we wanted, the morning air is perfect. We head to our walking tour and set off around the city. To be quite honest I’m not sure how much I retained. We learned about the royal guard, and how they don’t really guard the palace? About Greeks mastery of manipulating the laws, a motorcycle helmet need only be with you, but not on your head. Mostly I remember how thorough she was. Any recommendations she’s gone and personally vetted, having even done 6 food tours to know which is best.

We leave her to escape the afternoon sun and eat some incredible galaktobureko and orange pie in our airbnb. Full of sugar and carbs we take on the Acropolis. A dream festering for years in Kathleen’s mind since circumstances stopped her from visiting in 2014.

The Acropolis was an imposing sight over Athens but, ultimately, an easy climb with ruins dotting the pathway. You can’t walk too far in Athens it seemed without stumbling across remnants of marble columns or foundations of ancient homes. Even the metro stations house partially excavated ruins. We weaved in and out of the throngs of people to get a look at the Parthenon and accompanying temples from as many angles as possible in the golden hour sunlight. Once again, we had gone over budget due to the entrance fee and were determined to get our money’s worth.

By now you may have noticed we broke our own rule in the prior post of how you should start a trip to a new culture. Today we make up for it, sort of, with a cooking class. A sassy heavy-set Greek lady guides us through dolmades, tzatziki, spanakopita, and an eggplant dish called imam biyaldi. She’s got a chip on her shoulder watching honeymooners fuck up her freshly made filo dough, while she’s stuck in perpetual dating limbo with her boyfriend of 13 years. We get it. The food is nonetheless delicious.

Uncomfortably full we hide away yet again from the mid day sun and emerge after dark in search of music and raki. We find a grungy bar that fits the vibe but are lured away with promises of dark disco. Turns out dark disco is not our speed, nor really anyone’s but for a handful of die hard fans decked out in black spinning on the dance floor. Bummer at least we can get back to bed.

Our first last day in Athens is a sleepy one, agora, some ruins, some more ruins, and cats. Tomorrow is an early start.

At 5 AM alarm is blaring, careful maneuver down the ladder from our lofted bed and out the door to our ferry. Six hours of deep blue and land ho. On the horizon, Milos. Home of a certain Venus, maybe you’ve heard of her.

Settled in our postcard perfect town we walk to dinner of roasted lamb and slow cooked rooster in wine sauce. We’ve already blown our daily budget on the airbnb and ferry, what’s sixty more?

I’ll tell you what’s not worth sixty more, an ATV for a day, that’s highway robbery. So we walk to the beach. You’ve heard of picture perfect white sand beaches? This is just like that but better, it’s white stone. No grit and grains to cling to you. An added benefit is stone cliffs jutting 20 feet over the water that we leap off of.

Island life is a bit cyclical; beach, sunset, beach, sunset. I’ll spare you the details but to say that we witnessed some of the most azure waters and fiery sunsets of our lives. On the ride back to Athens we were even blessed by one last spectacle at sea, a gorgeous double rainbow across the sky.

Our true last day and we part ways for the afternoon. Marko studies data analytics and Kathleen studies Ancient Greek pottery. We reconvene at night for a showing of Hitchcock’s Rear Window at an outdoor theater with views of the Parthenon. I see myself in him, Kathleen does not approve.